I'm not one to jump onto 'trendy' food in general - quinoa, kale and acai existed long before they were famous and I'm pretty unimpressed by the practice of doubling the price of something because it's a 'superfood' or the like. That said, I had been intrigued by this alleged crossing of textures for a while, and decided to take the plunge. What would it look like, this chimerical beast that had attained near-mythical status in its quick and meteoric rise?
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| Pretty much like a doughnut, as it turned out. |
At £3.50 for a single piece it was certainly steep, so my expectations were high. As I bit into it I was immediately reminded of...a dense doughnut. It was quite heavy and there was none of the characteristic lightness and flakiness of a croissant in the texture. It was also somewhat dry and the pistachio and caramel flavours didn't hold their own in the overall balance with the dough. I was disappointed.
Wondering what all the fuss was about and thinking of how many decent pieces of sushi I could have procured for my £3.50 (probably 1), I took a second dejected bite -
And everything changed. What was this? A generous river of thick-flowing caramel hiding in the centre of the dough? Hallelujah! It was like irrigation to parched lands, delivering crucial moisture to the dough with a knockout punch of delicious buttery flavour. It was like butterscotch with a pistachio topping: at once devilish and heavenly.
Perhaps the jam version wouldn't have been as good, but I can heartily recommend the caramel-pistachio cronut as a bit of a gem. Try it once - you'll probably spend the next year running it off.
You can find Masters at 53 Great Portland Street; the closest Tube station is Oxford Circus.
@FerventFoodie
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